A Hungry Bear

I’ve wanted to try more greek recipes since my parents returned from sailing around the Greek islands. My mom became so enamored with the food and the culture that she actually decided she’d be called “yia-yia” instead of some version of “grandma” when my niece was born. And still here I’ve sat, cooking Italian like it’s the only kind of mediterranean food that exists. So when I noticed several greek-themed recipes in both Bon Appetit and Food & Wine in the past month, and I took that as a sign that it’s time to try something new for my mom. So I’m starting with this lamb and eggplant dish from March 2009 Bon Appetit, which has a garlicky mashed potato topping - it may not be authentic, but it’s great comfort food for these last few cold and rainy winter weeks.

Grocery list: 1 eggplant (about 1.5 pounds), 2 pounds boneless lamb shoulder (trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces), flour, 2 medium onions, 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes, 1 cup white wine, 3 cups beef stock, 10 garlic cloves, 1 tablespoon dried oregano, 2.5 pounds russet potatoes, 2 tablespoons butter, 3/4 cup whole milk, 1-1.5 cups grated cheese (greek kasseri cheese if you can find it, or parmesan works if you can’t).

Wash the eggplant, then cut it into cubes. Lay the eggplant pieces on a large baking sheet, then generously salt with kosher salt. The salt will draw out the excess water. Let it stand for an hour.

After an hour, transfer the eggplant to a colander and rinse with cold water. Pat dry with towels.

Peel the potatoes, then dice.

Trim the lamb of any excess fat, then cut into bite-sized cubes. Toss in a bowl with plenty of kosher salt and pepper. Dust with a tablespoon or two of flour.

In a large dutch oven or heavy pan, heat a couple tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add eggplant and cook until tender, about 10-12 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

Add a little more olive oil to the same pot. Add the lamb in a single layer. If you have too much meat, cook it in batches. Sear the meat on all sides so it’s just brown, about 5-7 minutes. Remove the meat with a slotted spoon to another bowl. While the meat is cooking, peel and slice the onions.

Add a little more olive oil to the same pot, then add the onions. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover; cook the onions for about 10 minutes. The recipe makes note that the bottom of the pan will be “very dark” - this is definitely true. I would have panicked if it hadn’t specifically pointed this out - it will looked burned on the bottom. Somehow, it adds to the flavor, so just roll with it. Remove the lid, add the wine, then turn up the heat to medium high so it will boil and evaporate. During this process, stir the bottom to help scrape up the good stuff.

Add the can of tomatoes, along with their juice, plus the broth, 8 minced cloves of garlic, and the oregano. Bring to a boil, then add the lamb (as well as any juice that sweated off the meat in the bowl - that’s good flavor too).

The original recipe says to cover and reduce heat to low for a one hour simmer, then uncover and simmer for another 45 minutes. I cut this to about 30 minutes covered and then 30 minutes uncovered - the lamb was still incredibly tender and the gravy was quite thick and rich. It’s up to you though, if you have the time, by all means. Whether it’s an hour or an hour-forty-five later, the last step is to stir in the eggplant, season with salt and pepper, then set aside.

Transfer the contents to a 13 x 9 baking dish.

While the meat is simmering for that last hour, cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for about 15 minutes (until very tender).  Drain and set aside.

Mince the last 2 cloves of garlic. Melt the butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan over medium high heat, then saute the garlic for 1 minute. Add the milk and bring to a simmer.

Add the potatoes to the garlic-milk mixture and mash.  Allow to simmer until thick.  Stir in the grated cheese, then season with salt and pepper.

Drop the mashed potatoes over the lamb filling by the spoonful.  Try and smooth it out as best you can so the topping is all one layer.

Bake at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes, or until the topping is golden.