A Hungry Bear

I’ve been saving this recipe in my binder since late last year, when I saw it in the December 2008 issue of Gourmet. As I’ve mentioned before, my mom is a little obsessed with Greek food (her name is Yia-Yia, not grandma!), so whenever I see an interesting Greek dish I want to make it for her. I kept waiting for the right time to make this when I was visiting her, but the need for a make-ahead pasta this week finally meant I was making it, whether she was here to enjoy it or not. I love the sweet cinnamon, clove and allspice flavors used in this dish; it’s an unexpected but interesting contrast to the meat and cheese.

Adapted from December 2008 Gourmet.

Ingredients: (meat sauce) 1.5 pounds ground lamb, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 2 garlic cloves, 1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes, 4 thyme springs, 3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon ground allspice, 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice, 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves; (bechamel sauce) 4 tablespoons butter, 3 tablespoons flour, 4 cups whole milk, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, 1 cup grated kefalotyri cheese (or substitute parmesan), 3 egg yolks; (for the pasta) 1 pound penne pasta, 1 cup bread crumbs, 1/4 cup grated kefalotyri cheese (or parmesan).

To make the meat sauce, chop the onion. Saute it in the olive oil in a large heavy skillet or dutch oven, over medium heat, for 5 minutes or until soft. Mince the garlic cloves and add to the onion and saute for another minute or two.

Add the lamb and turn the heat up to medium high. Use a spoon to break the meat up, stirring it frequently until it is cooked and no longer pink (10-15 minutes). A lot of fat will be released from the lamb, so you want to drain the skillet over the sink before continuing.

Then, add the can of tomatoes and juice, with the whole thyme sprigs, all the spices, and 1 teaspoon of kosher salt. When it starts to simmer, reduce the heat to low and cover partially with a lid.

Cook for about 30 minutes until the sauce has thickened. Turn off the heat. Find the thyme sprigs and discard.

To make the bechamel sauce, start by melting the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk to combine, and cook for a couple minutes, until the flour mixture starts to brown. Heat the milk in a separate pan (or microwave) until steaming. Begin to add the milk about one cup at a time to the flour mixture, whisking constantly so that it stays smooth.

When all the milk has been added, bring the pot to barely boiling, then turn off the heat. Stir in the cheese, nutmeg, and 2 teaspoons of salt.

The egg yolks are used to thicken the sauce and bring the entire casserole together. But you can’t just throw them in the hot cheese sauce, or they’ll cook (and you’ll have lumpy scrambled eggs mixed in cheese). Whisk the eggs in a separate bowl, then add 1/2 cup of the cheese sauce.

Whisk, then add another half cup, whisk, and repeat until you have 2 cups of cheese sauce combined with the eggs. At this point you’re safe to stir the entire 2 cup mixture back into the big pot of cheese sauce - stir to combine one last time.

Cook the pasta in salted boiling water until al dente. Drain, then stir in a ladle or two of the cheese sauce - just enough to coat all the pasta.

Spread a layer of pasta (using about half of the total amount) into the bottom of a large baking dish. Then add half of the meat sauce in the next layer, followed by the remaining pasta and then the remaining meat sauce. Pour the rest of the bechamel sauce evenly on top.

Mix the breadcrumbs and cheese in a small bowl with a fork.

Spread the breadcrumb and cheese mixture evenly on top of the dish.

Bake for 45 minutes at 375 degrees, until the pasta is bubbly and the breadcrumbs are golden brown.